Aegadian islands: the mythical "Aegades" of Homer's tale

Aegadian islands: the mythical "Aegades" of Homer's tale
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The Aegadian Islands (the mythical "Aegades" of Homer's tale) are a group of small mountainous islands in the Mediterranean Sea off the northwest coast of Sicily, Italy, near the city of Trapani. They are known as the islands of the goats and have been left almost entirely untouched by man. These natural reserves populated by migratory and non-migratory birds are covered by Indian figs, dwarf-palms and Mediterranean shrub. Tourism does not interrupt the quietness nor the silence that surrounds visitors looking for a world different from what they usually live in. Favignana, Marettimo and Levanzo (province of Trapani) are the main islands of a group of microisles forming the archipelago.

Levanzo and, to a lesser extent, Favignana show evidence of Neolithic and even Paleolithic paintings. The islands were the scene of the Battle of the Aegates Islands of 241 BC, in which the Carthaginian fleet was defeated by C. Lutatius Catulus; the engagement ended the First Punic War. With the end of western Roman power, the islands were part of territories of Goths, Vandals, Saracens, before the Normans fortified Favignana in 1081. In the following centuries they belonged to Genoa's Pallavicini-Rusconi family until 1874, when they were bought by the Florio family of Palermo.

Favignana (Aegusa), lying about 10 miles south west of Trapani, is, with its 33-mile coastline, the largest island in the archipelago. The island takes its name from the “Favonio”, the warm and smooth wind blowing through the archipalago. The coastline grottos, together with the surrounding sea cast a mysterious spell on the visitor. The inland's naked rocks and white tuft-caves are also very attractive. This island hosts the only hotels and campsites of the Aegadian islands.

Tuna-fishing, here known as “mattanza”, still is the chief source of employment and economic prosperity of the island although it is not as widespread as it was in the past. It has also been a major resource for poets and story-tellers as it has directly contributed to the content of their creations and to the legendary tales of these islands.

The term "mattanza" comes to us from an old Spanish word, matar, meaning "to kill". Many terms, such as “rais” (the head fisherman of the mattanza), are actually Arabic in origin, introduced in the ninth century when, during the Arab domination of Sicily, the technique became popular. There are indications, however, that it is much older, possibly originating, in some form, in the Phoenician or Carthaginian era. Mattanza is quite a cruel fishing practice. The tuna are captured in successive nets which are gradually restricted in size and raised toward the surface, where the fish are attacked with large spears in a sophisticated trap system. One of the interesting things about the mattanza is the team effort of the numerous fishermen involved in each catch, and tourists themselves can partake.

Levanzo, the Roman "Phorbantia", lies 3 miles from Favignana and is the smallest Aegadian island. The white limestone and the green Mediterranean vegetation colour this isle (5 km2) which is rich in rocks rising vertically above the sea where numerous grottos lie at their base: Crollata, dei Porci, di Cala Tramontana, di Punta Capperi where prehistoric men lived and hunted the migratory birds populating the island. These animals still represent a natural wealth that deserves protection and respect.

Marettimo, the ancient "Hiera", is a sea jewel that broke away from Sicily 600 thousand years ago and now lies 21 miles from its coast. From the 686 metres of Pizzo Falcone the rocky slopes fall perpendicularly into the sea. This island has a ragged coastline and is covered with a rich and varied vegetation of more than 500 rare botanical species as well as unique ones. Halfway between Trapani and Marsala there is a shallow sea called the Stagnone sea and a unique group of islands facing Favignana called the Stagnone islands. Most of them formed part of the mainland and only later did they become islands following the invasion of the waters that separated them from Sicily. In addition to the bigger Isola Grande (also known as Isola Lunga) there are the smaller Isles of Santa Maria, of La Scuola and the most famous and fascinating island of Mozia (San Pantaleo).

The local cuisine is excellent and based on tuna fish (the real local speciality) served in thousands of different ways, shell-fish and, above all, the delicious couscous with fish which is one of the best dishes of Trapani's cuisine. The Marettimo island's excellent gastronomy offers principally dishes such as tuna-fish "lattume", tuna-fish in vinegar and oil or "bottarga" (tuna-fish roe). Special mention must be reserved for the excellent lobsters.

HOW TO GET THERE
Now a popular tourist destination, the Aegadian Islands can only be reached by sea. Ferries and faster hydrofoils are operated by the groups Siremar (0923.545411) and Ustica Lines (0923.22200) with frequency obviously decreasing in low seasons. Departure is from Trapani's port.

www.isoleegadi.it

www.egadi.com

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